The recent London Fashion Week marked a significant moment of revival and innovation, showcasing the vibrant designs for spring/summer 2027. This year, the event was particularly notable for the return of two prestigious British designers to the London stage.
Return of Iconic Brands
Alexander McQueen made a triumphant return to London after a quarter-century of presenting in Paris. This move was described as “a big deal” by Laura Weir, CEO of the British Fashion Council. Seán McGirr, the creative director, embraced the brand’s origins with a striking collection featuring devil horns, lace corsets, and chainmail skull dresses.
Mulberry also made a notable comeback after a nine-year hiatus, introducing Christopher Kane’s debut collection that highlighted the iconic Baywater bag and embraced leather in coats, skirts, and loafers. Weir emphasized the ambition to position London Fashion Week as a hub for British creativity and economic growth.
Defining Trends for the Season
Messy Girl Aesthetic
This season’s leading trend is the “messy girl” aesthetic, as identified by Elektra Kotsoni from Vogue Business and Vogue Runway. This style is a response to the previous year’s “clean girl” look, embodying resilience and rebellion through unexpected clashes of pastel colors, dreamy florals, and tactile materials. Designers like Chopova Lowena, Sinead Gorey, and Conner Ives exemplified this aesthetic on the runway.
Gardening-Core
Gardening-core is the latest evolution in fashion, inspired by the cottage-core trend. This style emphasizes practical, gardening-inspired silhouettes such as aprons and trench coats. The trend was sparked by Loewe’s watering can-shaped handbag and was further explored by designers like Erdem, Yuhan Wang, and Bora Aksu.
Modern Goddess
Drawing inspiration from ancient Greek styles and cinema, the “modern goddess” trend features draped garments and flowy silhouettes. This trend is a departure from the minimalist fashion seen among guests, as noted by Kotsoni. Pauline Dujancourt’s show highlighted this trend with voluminous and billowing fabrics.
Orange Takes Center Stage
Orange is emerging as a dominant color for the coming year, with various shades making appearances on the runway. Mulberry, Justin Cassin, Enny Atelier, and Vin + Omi all incorporated this vibrant hue into their collections, suggesting it might be Pantone’s color of the year for 2027.
The Ballet Influence
Ballet has become a significant influence in fashion, with Edeline Lee’s show featuring models en pointe. The trend is further highlighted by the presence of ballet-inspired themes in publications like Vogue Italia and collaborations with dancers like Roberto Bolle and Francesca Hayward. Ballet flats and small silhouettes are expected to remain popular, encouraging fashion enthusiasts to explore vintage options.
